Coffee Bay to Hole in the Wall
We read the instructions posted in the hostel and set off towards Hole in the Wall. The details provided were how to find the trail head, then go up and down until you arrive. It also had options of how to return, hike back, organize a ride or hitchhike. One way was 9 kms and we planned to hitch back. We worked our way along the side of a large hill with the gorgeous coastline beneath us. An eagle soared overhead effortlessly as if he were a kite in the wind.
The start of the hike for Hole in the Wall
We came to a split in the path and took the high road. Shortly after, a man approached us to say we were going the wrong way and directed us accordingly all the while offering to be our guide. We kindly declined and continued on. Then other man approached us to say we were going the wrong way and that he’d show us the shortcut. This happened again and again and all the while we didn’t know if we were on the right path or not. Animals, mostly cows, sheep and goats, roamed freely grazing on the land. This also meant that there are paths left and right that led to nowhere.
Ups and downs on the Hole in the Wall hiking trail
We were going up and down hills. Every time we reached the top of one and we thought we’d hit a plateau we made our way down agin only to have to hike up another. A woman pointed us in the right direction and soon we could see our destination in the distance. We came down the hill to the village and found a dozen cows sitting on a soccer field in the sand as if they were resting at halftime. After our 3 hour hill-filled hike we felt we deserved a beer and enjoyed it while watching the waves come in. We still had a kilometer left before we could jump in the water and refresh ourselves.
Cows resting on the beach
We started walking again and had a couple more offers to be guided before we reached our final destination. The waves crashed against the rock formation in the bay, which over time literally caused a hole in the middle. It was a sight to see and we jumped in the cool water to continue watching as the water splashed against the walls of the hole and entered the bay. We ate our lunch in the shade and explored a bit more before heading back to town. We needed to get back to Coffee Bay by 3:30-4 pm for our overnight in the village.
Hole in the Wall
By the time we were ready to catch a ride, it was 2:30 pm. We walked along the road hoping that cars would pass, but they only went in the wrong direction. It was 3 pm before we knew it and we had at least 5 kms to go. A car full of backpackers from our hostel stopped, but didn’t have an open seat in their car. We started jogging/walking and as time ran out we mostly ran. One other car stopped, but again they didn’t have room. We even asked to get in the bed of a dump truck, but it was also full. One kilometer before we reached the hostel a truck picked us up and we were thankful for even the little bit that it helped. We walked into the hostel at 3:56 pm and couldn’t believe we’d made it.
Our host was already waiting for us, but we asked to take a quick shower as we were covered in dust and sweat. Tico went to take a drink of water and realized he didn’t have his water bottle. So we hopped in the car and went back out to search. Thankfully it was lying in the middle of the road where we’d been picked up so we rushed back and cleaned up.
View more pictures of Hole in the Wall here.
Xhosa Cultural Experience
The hostel offered an overnight with a local family and we thought this would be a great way to learn more about their culture. The Xhosa people occupy the Eastern Cape of South Africa and speak Xhosa, which is pronounced with a click. This is also the same ethnic group of Nelson Mandela, who was born not far from Coffee Bay. Our host was Elvin as well as his wife and 4 children. Their land had 2 circular huts, a rectangular house, 2 gardens, several chickens and chicks, 2 goats and 2 dogs. The circular huts were left from when he was younger and he lived on the land with his mother and brothers. He built the rectangular house with his earnings from working in the mine before he was in a car accident that left him with a prosthetic leg.
Arriving to the Xhosa village
Elvin explained the rules of his culture and how to acquire land from the headman and chief. The man must go ask for a plot of land from the headman and pays 500 Rand (about $37 dollars). Each person gets to choose their location and everyone gets the same size plot. He told us about marriage and how the man must ask the girl’s father for approval. Then the man’s family must provide her family with payment in the form of cows or goats. Sometimes it can take years to pay off the lobola. The woman must also take her husband’s last name or the government will not recognize the marriage in the event of death.
As Elvin answered our questions, Sama, his 15 year-old daughter cooked us dinner. His wife and sister-in-law sat behind him and listened. The chickens and dogs would come in looking for scraps on the ground. He continued on to explain the roles of each gender. The women and girls cook, clean, collect firewood, and grind the maize while the boys watch after the animals and the men tend to the garden. He told us how boys become men and how they were celebrating the initiation of several men the next day. The boys had been living in the forest for the past several weeks and would come out after their circumscision. They would be painted in white clay for multiple days and then covered in red clay once they were men. The celebration would last 2 days and include a significant amount of drinking.
Dinner with Sama and Elvin
Our dinner that night was whole kernel maize and dried beans that Elvin had grown in his garden. There was also cooked cabbage and a soy-based sauce. The portions were huge with at least 4-5 cups on our plate. The meal had been prepared on a paraffin oil burner sitting on the soil-covered ground. Elvin explained how the oil is cheaper than propane gas and they could not afford to refill their gas cylinders. Our meal was followed by coffee and bread, which was made in a cast iron pot that had coals underneath it as well as on the overturned lid. We finished up as it was getting dark outside, which meant it was time to get the candles out.
Xosha village at night
They have no electricity although the government has promised it soon. This means leftovers were given to the dogs or left in the oven (for sealing purposes only). The family had a generator that ran on gasoline that was connected to a television, DVD player, cable satellite dish, and a few light bulbs for those times when they had extra money. Each child had a cell phone, but there were times when they would be unable to charge them at home and would need to go to the hostel. Most of their news was provided through the battery-powered radio as well as word of mouth. Someone in the village had died while we were there and the person’s sister was going door to door to share the news.
Elvin’s living room
The next morning we had coffee and bread while learning more about the school system. Sama hoped to be an accountant one day and if she was able to get good enough grades she would get a full scholarship to university from the government. She explained how she liked to play soccer and had learned thanks to 2 Germans that moved to Coffee Bay and organized a team. To help her family make extra money, she also did cultural dances at the hostel. When asked what her favorite meal was she answered, “African salad, it’s ground maize with sour milk.”
Elvin, our Xhosa host
Elvin was grateful for the “white people” as it provided his family as well as village with a form of income. We were thankful that he was willing to open up his home and share some of his culture with us. There were many more questions to ask and it would have been interesting to see the initiation celebration, but unfortunately we had to leave.
See more pictures from the Xhosa experience here.
Helpful tips:
- You don’t need a guide to do the Hole in the Wall hike, but be ready to turn a lot of offers down. Unemployment is very high in this area and they try to make a few Rand where they can.
- The path can be confusing, but try to stay as close to the beach while still going up and down and you’ll find it.
- Hitchhiking back to Coffee Bay is not the most viable option as the road ends in Hole in the Wall and not many cars pass. If you do get lucky, we were told 20 Rand per person is the accepted price.
- We highly recommend staying with Elvin and his family. It can be arranged through the Coffee Shack. He is the only one in the village who accepts guests.
que manera mas maravillosa de conocer!!!!