As we neared the end of our journey across the Bwabwata National Park, we saw an entrance to the Kwando area of the park. There was a sign for the reception and headquarters and this was the first thing that resembled an official park. We went to the reception and started asking questions. Unfortunately, we had a hard time getting information about how the park worked. In the end, we paid our entrance fee and began the 13 kms (8 miles) to the Nambwa campsite to learn more. We passed elephants and their young, red lechwes and impala as we drove in. These animals were much more nervous around us and would quickly hide.
Elephants hiding in the bush
We had to engage the 4×4 multiple times to get through the puddles of sandy mud and slid around quite a bit. There was sand at times that caused the steering wheel to be turned to one side yet we were still driving straight. The last bit before the camp was pure mud with tire ruts from previous cars. We got a scare for a second and thought we’d get stuck, but thankfully made our way across.
Engaging 4×4 towards Nambwa campsite
While reserving our site for the night, we learned that there are no fences around the camp and there was a resident hippo and leopard. Since we have a rooftop tent, this wouldn’t be a problem while sleeping, but once it got dark we didn’t know what was on the other side of the bushes at any given moment. There were game drives sponsored by the lodge, but you have to book 24 hours in advance. Otherwise, you were on your own for a game drive. This was very different to the other parks that didn’t allow driving near dark as we’d have 30 minutes after sunset to get back to camp.
Campsite at Nambwa
Our campsite was on the edge of the Kwando River and we went to the lodge restaurant to watch the sunset as elephants walked in the distance. Back at our campsite and when we thought the experience couldn’t get any better, the almost-full moon that was shining orange rose over the river. During the night, we heard footsteps and at least one animal eating, but were unable to see what it was.
Sunset at the Nambwa lodge
Rising moon in front of our campsite
We had planned to drive to the lookout hide to see the animals before it got too hot, but decided to enjoy the sunrise instead. By the time we got there, there were 30 impalas and 15 baboons on the shoreline, but it was too hot to see anything else. To climb into the metal structure, you had to look around and trust that nothing was hiding nearby as you made your way to ‘safety.’ We made the decision to stay another night now that we knew the road and would go back for sunset and the next day’s sunrise.
The sunrise view from our campsite
Looking for animals at the hideout
We spent the day in camp cooking, doing laundry and listening to the sounds around us. There were fish eagles in the background that brought back memories of Felix Unite, a family of warthogs chewing on the grass and the occasional hoot of a baboon across the river.
African fish eagle
As the sun started making its descent, we got in the truck and headed back to the hide. We used our binoculars to scan our surroundings, but only found a crocodile and male impala in the distance. After a while, we decided that this wasn’t the best place to be and we started heading back to camp to see what we could find.
Male impala in the bush
We found a safari truck parked near a lagoon that had 10 or so hippos opening their mouths wide. There were 2 younger ones that were practicing their fighting skills while the others watched. They grunted when we got closer and one stood in the water to show us his back and a glimpse of his size. The sun had dipped below the horizon and it was time to head back to camp. Almost to our destination, we found roughly 15 elephants standing in the road blocking our way. We watched them for a bit as they walked and ate, but as it was getting darker we needed to move. Inching our way forward, they got the hint and carried on to allow us to pass. There was a moment where we didn’t think they’d catch on and we were afraid we’d be out in the pitch dark. Thankfully, that didn’t happen.
Hippos fighting before sunset
Elephants blocking our way to camp
The next morning we went back to the hideout and followed lion footprints for a good distance, but upon arrival we didn’t get lucky. As we exited the park, we saw another large herd of elephants. There were waterbuck in the swamp beneath the highway as we made our way to Kongola to refill gas before crossing the park back to Divundu.
Sunrise on our second morning
The roads in the bush
Elephants crossing the road
The next day we would leave Namibia and make our way into Botswana. Our few days in the Zambezi Region gave us a great start to our 4×4 self-drive tour and a small preview of what was to come. While we loved our time in Namibia, we were excited to see what the next country would hold.
Helpful tips:
- Nambwa campsite is more expensive ($195 Namibian dollars) than nearby campsites, but definitely worth the bush experience.
- A 4×4 is required to reach the campsite.
- As their website says, “If you’re nervous about hippos and elephants coming through the camp, you might want to sleep in a roof tent on your vehicle.”
Que amaneceres mas hermosos!!!!! y los hipopotamos posando!!!!
Stunning pics!!