Drakensberg Mountains

Start of the hike for Tugela Falls

As we drove closer towards the mountains we could see a thunderstorm in the distance. The sun looked like it was going to explode from behind the puffy clouds. The roads were covered in potholes, ones that have been referred to as tire eaters because they are so deep, so we wanted to reach our destination by sundown.

We stayed at Amphitheater Backpackers which is at the base of the Northern Drakensberg Mountains.  This would be our base to hike the mountains.  They have a tour service that runs a variety of activities and they strongly suggested we use them.  We had done our research before and wanted to do the Tugela Falls hike, but on our own.  Although we tried to get information from them, they would only sell their trips.  Our plan was to check it out and determine if we could do it alone.

Hiking with the fog

The next morning we got up and met 2 Americans, Proscha and Christoph, that were hoping to do the same route.  Thankfully they knew more about where to park and had a functional map and we could provide the car.  It worked out perfectly.  So we got our packs ready with snacks and lunch and headed out to see what we could find.

Once we got off the paved road, there were large rocks and uneven surfaces to work our way through.  Our small Datsun Go held strong and Tico maneuvered through it all as well as the thick fog as if he were a rally driver.  We reached the Sentienal Peak car park and paid our permit to hike.  The understanding was we could buy a map, but the only map they could offer us was framed on the wall.  They explained what we’d see: follow the path to the zigzags, work your way up some rocks, continue up the chain ladders and follow the river to the falls.  So with that information, we started our trek.

Tugela Falls’ chain ladders

The fog covered the landscape, but we hoped that it would burn off throughout the day.  It would open at times and we would see the gorgeous green hills below.  We passed some hikers on their way down and second guessed the path multiple times. We leaned into the cliff at spots as we were on slippery rocks on the edge and left arrows made of rocks to help us on the way down.  Then we made it to the chain ladders, which were 2 rusted metal ladders that were screwed into the rock.  It was an almost completely vertical climb of roughly 90 meters.  The fog still surrounded us and the wind was blowing, but the only thing you could do was trust that they’d hold you.  We took it one step at a time holding onto the rungs with all our might.  Once at the top, the path disappeared.  We could hear a waterfall in the distance so we stopped for lunch hoping the clouds would clear, which they didn’t.  It was getting chilly so we decided we’d head back to the ladders to see if we could find another route.  Some South Africans that we had greeted in the car park were just then ascending.  They had a map and were headed to the falls so we joined their group.

Sheep at the top of the hike

We made it up the last bit of rocks before reaching the plateau where the river began.  There were some Lesotho farmers at the top overseeing their sheep and cows that were scattered across the mountain top.  We reached the opposite edge of the cliff and were standing directly over the Tugela Falls.  Even though the sun would occsiaonlly shine on us, the clouds covered the view below.  The South Africans offered for us to camp in the cave with them the night as it was supposed to be clear the next day.  While it was extremely tempting, we knew it’d get cold at night and we weren’t prepared for that or have enough food.

Tugela Falls covered with fog

As we made our way down, the clouds opened more and we got a glimpse of the waterfall where we’d had lunch.  We also got more views of the green valley below.  As we were approaching the car park, we watched the clouds make their way over the ledge and the view was blocked again.  Our last steps on the path were through that cloud.

Going down the hike with a little less fog

View more pictures of this trip here

Helpful tips:

• There were 2 pay points for the hike, which were the gate (40R) and hiking permit (70R).  In total, the hike cost 110 Rand per person compared to the tour price of 690 Rand per person.
• Amphitheater Backpackers is a good base for the hike, but be aware that it is a good 2 hour drive one-way to Sentiental Peak.
• Despite constantly hearing that you will need a guide, this is NOT necessary.  You also do not need a high clearance vechile although be careful if it has rained.
• The final path to the falls is directly up the last slope.  Follow the cairns to the top and then the river.